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Honeycomb table · galvanized iron · K40 series

zwqpeic K40 Honeycomb Bed

A galvanized iron honeycomb with an alloy edge, made for K40-series CO2 lasers. It trades the stock spring clamp for a flat, open surface that supports thin sheet stock and lets the beam and smoke pass through.

  • Made forK40-series CO2 lasers
  • Sizes300x200mm, 350x250mm, custom; this version labelled 400x300x22mm
  • HoneycombGalvanized iron plate
  • FrameAlloy edging
  • Height22mm (from the version label)
  • FlatnessHigh, resists deformation (maker claim)
Right for
  • K40 owners replacing the stock stamp clamp with a full flat bed
  • Cutting thin plywood, card and acrylic sheet that sags on a clamp
  • Anyone who wants smoke pulled down through the bed rather than up past the lens
Wrong for
  • Buyers who cannot confirm which size ships before ordering
  • Machines with no way to lower the bed or raise the focus by 22mm
  • Very small parts that can tip into the cells
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Measure the K40 bay before you pick a size

zwqpeic offers this honeycomb in 300 by 200mm and 350 by 250mm, and makes custom sizes on request. This particular version carries a 400 by 300mm by 22mm label, while its size line reads 300 by 200mm. Those are very different parts, so confirm with zwqpeic which one ships before you pay.

Then measure your own machine. The K40 moves the head over roughly 300 by 200mm, about 12 by 8 inches, and the cabinet around that area differs from one build to the next. Many K40s have an exhaust duct that pokes into the back of the bay, and the stock clamp bed sits on standoffs that set the floor height.

SizeAgainst a 300 x 200mm work areaCheck before ordering
300 x 200mmMatches the travelClearance at the exhaust duct
350 x 250mmExtends past the travelCabinet width and door opening
400 x 300mmWell past the travelWhether it fits the cabinet at all

Take these measurements with a steel rule, lid open and machine unplugged:

  • inside width and depth of the bay at bed height
  • distance from the exhaust duct lip to the front wall
  • depth from the lens to the bay floor
  • any wiring, screws or brackets on the bay floor

A bed larger than the travel is not wasted. It gives a full sheet somewhere flat to rest, and the edges outside the beam's reach make handy stops for jigs. It is only a problem if it will not go through the door. Full cabinet and work-area figures are in the K40 dimensions guide.

Specs

Measurements & ratings

SpecValue
TypeHoneycomb working table
Brandzwqpeic
Made forK40-series CO2 laser cutters and engravers
Standard size300 x 200mm
Alternative size350 x 250mm
Custom sizesAvailable on request
This version's label400 x 300mm x 22mm
Height22mm
Honeycomb materialGalvanized iron plate
FrameAlloy edging
FlatnessHigh flatness, not easy to deform (maker claim)
Laser typeCO2 cutting and engraving
UseDIY equipment part and replacement bed

Pull the spring clamp and give the bed a flat floor

The stock K40 ships with a spring-loaded clamp built for rubber stamps. It holds a small plate well and a sheet of plywood badly. Taking it out is the first step to fitting this honeycomb; give it ten minutes and a screwdriver.

  1. Unplug the machine and wait before reaching into the bay. The tube's power supply is at the other end of the cabinet, but treat every K40 cabinet as live until the cord is out.
  2. Remove the clamp assembly. It is usually held by a few screws on standoffs. Keep the screws in a cup; you may want them for spacers later.
  3. Clean the bay floor. Years of resin and ash collect under the stock bed. Scrape and vacuum before the new bed goes in.
  4. Set the honeycomb on a level base. Use blocks, nuts on threaded rod or a lab jack so all four corners sit at the same height.
  5. Check flatness. Lay a straightedge across the cells in both directions and look for light underneath.

zwqpeic uses galvanized iron for the honeycomb and an alloy strip around the edge, and it describes the bed as hard to deform. Treat it gently anyway. Honeycomb cells crush if you lean on them or drop a heavy offcut, and a dent under the work puts that spot out of focus.

Before you power up: check that nothing you added touches the rails, the belts or the head's path. Jog the head by hand across the full area with the lid open and the laser off.

With the clamp gone and the bed level, the only job left is focus.

In the catalogue

Where it slots in

K40 laser models by type, September 2026. Highlighted: zwqpeic K40 Honeycomb Bed.

Reset focus height for a 22mm tall bed

A honeycomb raises the work surface by its own height. At 22mm, that is enough to move a sheet well out of focus if you set the bed on the old clamp's floor level. The fix is to set the bed so the top of your material sits at the lens's focal distance.

Most K40s use a lens with a 50.8mm focal length. Focus is measured from the lens itself, not from the bottom of the head, so a head with an air cone changes the gap you see. Find the real focus with a ramp test instead of trusting a number:

  1. Prop a strip of scrap wood at an angle, one end on the bed and the other raised a few millimetres.
  2. Fire a straight low-power line along the strip.
  3. Find the thinnest point of the line and measure from there to the underside of the head.
  4. Cut a spacer block to that height and use it for every job.

To hit that height with a 22mm bed, you have three choices:

  • Shims or standoffs under the bed, cut to one height for your most common stock
  • A lab jack, which lets you move the bed per job but is fiddly to keep level
  • A motorised table like the Lightobject Power Z table, which handles thick and thin stock without shims

Recheck focus whenever you change material thickness. A 3mm sheet and a 6mm sheet need the bed in two different places, and cutting out of focus wastes power the K40 does not have to spare. The alignment guide covers focus alongside the mirror checks, and the K40 setup guide covers the first test cuts.

Also consider

Worth comparing

Know what a galvanized honeycomb will not do

A honeycomb helps most on cuts. The beam leaves the bottom of the sheet into open cells rather than a solid plate, smoke gets pulled down and away, and thin stock stays flat across the whole area. Engraving gains too, because the surface stays level from corner to corner.

It has limits, and knowing them saves material:

  • Back-side marks. The beam still hits the cell walls under a cut line and can leave faint scorch marks on the underside. Mask the back of show pieces.
  • Resin build-up. Cutting plywood and acrylic leaves residue in the cells. Scrape and brush the bed every few sessions so the surface stays flat.
  • Tiny parts. Small cut pieces can tip into the cells or shift. Leave small tabs or cut them last.
  • Fire. Debris collects under a honeycomb. Empty the bay floor often; a pile of scraps under the bed is fuel.

Galvanized iron is magnetic, so small magnets hold warped sheets flat without tape. Keep them out of the head's path.

A honeycomb works best with air assist. The jet pushes smoke down through the cut, the open cells give it somewhere to go, and the exhaust fan carries it out instead of letting it hang under the lens.

The LSYAMQF honeycomb is described in identical terms, so pick on whichever maker confirms the size you need. The ZQDWMND bed names a 5.5mm cell and five sizes, including 220 by 320mm and 200 by 300mm. For the full upgrade order, bed included, see K40 upgrades.

Shop talk

Fit & install questions

Will the zwqpeic honeycomb fit a stock K40?

The 300x200mm size matches the K40's roughly 12x8 inch work area. This version is labelled 400x300mm, so confirm the size with zwqpeic and measure your bay, including the exhaust duct.

Do I need to change focus after fitting it?

Yes. The bed is 22mm tall, so set it on shims or a Z table until the top of your material sits at the lens's focal distance, found with a ramp test.

What is the honeycomb made of?

Galvanized iron plate with alloy edging. Being iron, it holds small magnets for keeping thin sheets flat.

How do I clean a honeycomb bed?

Lift it out, brush and scrape resin from the cells, and vacuum the bay floor under it. Do this every few sessions if you cut plywood or acrylic.